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FAQs

Ground Loop Repair Questions

Every question we get asked about ground loop repair, answered straight.

Questions

How It Works

How do you find a leak in a buried loop without digging everything up?

The loop field is segmented and each run is pressurized individually to isolate the failing section. Tracer gas or dye is then introduced into that segment to surface at the exact fault point. Targeted potholing exposes only that area, keeping the rest of the yard untouched.

Does a loop leak always mean the whole loop has to be replaced?

No. A damaged section can often be spliced or replaced if the rest of the loop is still sound. Full replacement is considered only when multiple sections are failing or the pipe condition is too degraded to repair reliably.

What happens if I wait and keep topping up the fluid instead of repairing the leak?

Continued fluid loss lowers heat exchange efficiency, causes the system to short-cycle, and raises heating and cooling costs. Glycol dilution from repeated refills can also drop freeze protection below Colorado winter requirements, risking pipe damage.

Will a temporary sealant fix the problem for good?

Sealants are not a confirmed repair for an active loop leak. Pressure loss typically returns, and the loop still needs a proper splice or section replacement. A pressure hold test after any repair is the only way to confirm the fix held.

How much digging is usually involved?

Many repairs use targeted potholing to reach only the problem area, which is far less disruptive than opening the full loop field. The actual excavation footprint depends on the leak location, burial depth, and whether the pipe runs under hardscape.

What happens after the repair is finished?

The loop is pressure tested to confirm it holds at spec, then flushed and refilled with glycol at the correct antifreeze concentration for Colorado temperatures. A post-repair system check confirms stable heat exchange before normal circulation resumes.

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